A little follow-up.
The reason for Robert's voyage was to view Staffa, and to get into Fingal's
Cave. Though his voyage took over three weeks - being becalmed and
stormbound, we have followed in his wake the best we could with our weather.
We, of course, had motors in our yachts whereas he only had "sweeps". Very
long oars rowed from the deck-top.
Our reason for this voyage is to write and illustrate a book. Wallace will
be using Robert's original log, and adding historical background and any
information we can find for the period 1814, around these Scottish Isles.
I will be making paintings of the ports of call and any interesting details
I have spotted along the way.
Most of the ports of call have changed beyond recognition, but we are
hopeful that the Archivist in Tobermory Museum will be able to let us see
their extensive library of old photographs. They are searching these for
us.
A big thank you to Agivey - a stout hearted yacht. Wallace her Skipper. Brave Graham who fought the "overfalls", and Ashley who had a very quick introduction to sailing and is now adept.
Also to Nanette - a beautifully equipped yacht. Her Skipper Des, who supplied us with another dingy, Ron who knows engines, Denys and Kevin.
Further details will be posted at intervals, so keep watching.
These photos of Staffa are:
Staffa from the sea - the right hand cave is Fingal's
Inside Fingal's Cave
Looking out of Fingal's Cave
Graham, Ashley and myself left Oban at 12.40 am. on the bus/ferry to
Belfast. A long, but beautiful drive through the glens, on a fine sunny
day. I carried on to Derry and arrived home at 1.30 am.
Please watch this space for the photos of the voyage, which will be
downloaded within the next 2 days.
This is a little preview:
Sheltering in Portnahaven.
A rough sail, with Nanette visible through the shrouds.
The crew: Ros,Graham, Ashley and Wallace.
We left Tobermory spotlessly clean after welcome showers. We have had two scorching days with little wind, so had a leisurely sail round to Oban.
Robert spent three days in Oban (due to bad weather of course) but was very taken with the town. "This is very cheerful, and a pretty regular built town, all the houses two stories high, very civil and industrious people". Here they purchased gunpowder, rope, porter, sealing wax, comfits, blacking liquid, gloves, turf and bread, besides many other small eatable matters, such as Mutton, potatoes, and pen-knives. The potatoes from Oban were especially good, and he was to bring a quantity home.
Unfortunately this is where Graham - who has a very swollen and painful leg from a bump, has reluctantly decided he should get home to rest it. Ashley is accompanying him, and Ros too is jumping ship due to a sad event for friends at home.
The voyage will be researched further, later in the year.
Agivey with Wallace and Ron from Nanette, will sail today and hope to reach Coleraine tomorrow. Nanette will continue back to Sligo.
Keep watching this space, as more will be added from time to time. It has been quite memorable, and we all agree that a good fright is not a bad thing.
We are now in Tobermory and I think that you will have guessed that we are now doing the voyage clockwise. The weather dictated direction.
This is a thriving tourist town with pontoons and all mod-cons in the visitors centre (showers, hairdryers etc). It looks beautiful with the houses painted in primary colours, and the Marina which was opened last year to cater for very many yachts.
This morning on the way to Tobermory, we stopped at Croigh House in an inlet on the north coast of Mull, an anchorage that Robert used to go ashore with the crew and caroused all night with the local laird of the Campbell family. We are led to believe that the descendants may be living in New Zealand now.
The day before yesterday we got to Iona and spent three nights in Bull Hole, opposite the island. It is a beautiful, little sheltered inlet surrounded by pink granite cliffs. We saw no seals which were so plentiful in Portnahaven (they crooned to us day and night and lounged around the storm battered rocks).
Yesterday was the highlight of the trip. We reached Staffa and went into Fingal's Cave.
Des and his crew entertained us on Nanette with a delicious lunch, played Mendelssohn's Fingal's Cave, whilst anchored off the southeast corner of the island. It was too rough to enter the cave by sea, so we went ashore on the jetty and climbed around to the cave.
The cave itself is spectacular and most awe inspiring. The columns reach 70 ft from the roof of the cave, straight down into the water 70 ft. deep. It is also 70 ft. recessed and made of the same rock (basalt) as the Giants Causeway. It is part of the Giant's Causeway - either the beginning or the end. The octagonal columns are richly coloured with weathering and lichens - greens and purples, pinks and reds. It is an amazing sight.
We will upload photos at another time, when we have a higher speed internet connection.
Having left Malin, we hit very nasty seas. 4 hrs. of very bumpy waves and then long Atlantic rollers. 8-10 ft. high and 30 yards apart. Sighting Islay lighthouse, we thought we were nearly home and dry, after 6 hrs. Without warning we hit a maelstrom, in the literal sense. Nothing but 'overfalls'. Graham bravely fought us through it for about an hour. and we were relieved to reach Portnahaven after 8 hrs battering. We have sheltered there for the last 2 days as the weather has been so awful. It is a small charming fishing village and everyone very friendly and interested in our voyage. It has one popular pub which served a delicious lunch of warm haggis with whiskey sauce. I was very glad to spend the day with my feet on the ground, whilst the rest of the crew went off by minibus to Bowmore, where Robert was stranded at one stage of his journey. The distillery, founded in 1779 was visited, which without a doubt Robert would have visited too.
Today we set sail, heading for Colonsay, being led led out of the harbour by two fishermen, who were going out fishing for razor fish. This must be a difficult job as they dive for them.
Again pretty heavy seas greeted us out of the shelter, and we tossed our way up to Colonsay. We are now in the hotel and about to have a late lunch. We will meet up with Georgina, who runs the well known bookshop here and is a cousin of Wallace's. She will, hopefully give us good advice on Scottish publishers who may be interested in co-publishing this book. It was a lovely walk back from the bookshop to the harbour with corncrakes rattling in the fields as we passed. There is a small airfield on Colonsay and a challenging looking golf course. Robert dined here with the laird.
Next stop will be Iona and hopefully another update.
The route of the voyage.
AGIVEY estimated to arrive Portmore Pier 6 p.m. Meeting
up with yacht and skipper Des Moran from Sligo. More details of his crew
later.
AGIVEY'S crew . Skipper Wallace Clark, Graham Kane, Graham's son-in-law
Ashley, and myself - Ros Harvey, great-great-great-grandaughter of Robert's,
and 'Artist-in-residence '!
Estimated Sailing Time 11 a.m. From Portmore Pier, Malin Head, Inishowen,
Co.Donegal, Ireland. Heading for Colonsay. Will update from there.
Trawbreaga Bay is from where Robert sailed.
He would have passed the Garvan Islands. A rough piece of water. You can
see Inishtrahull lighthouse in the background.
Robert's wife, Barbara nee Gage, came from Rathlin Island, and the quaint
painting depicts Robert and Barbara visiting her parents at the Manor House
in Rathlin. This would have been painted around 1802 after they were
married.